EIL Intercultural Learning

I have always wanted to go to Africa, I knew I wanted to work on a human rights project and I had two months to do it in… so Nigeria with EIL was the perfect match.

Like a typical Irishman everything was left until the last minute. I picked up my visa the day I flew out, I packed an hour or so before the flight and arrived at the airport just in time… none of which I recommend by the way!! So, after sleeping most of the way on the plane it was about thirty minutes before touch down in Lagos that the ‘another fine mess you’ve got yourself into’ feeling set in.

I arrived in Lagos but my bags didn’t… Crap! Ademola, a SYTO rep., spotted me then brought me by the hand (which was a little embarrassing I’ve got to admit) around the airport to find out what happened. My luggage never made it onto the plane at Heathrow, luckily I got everything back after three days though, so I was itching to get started.

We drove to Ibadan for orientation, where I had my first REAL taste of Nigeria.I sat down in the office and six kids came to the window, just to look at me!! When I said hello they prostrated on the ground which was surreal, it’s a traditional Nigerian greeting!! Godswill (SYTO rep.) brought me all around the city, I tried loads of Nigerian food which is amazing (don’t believe anyone who tells you otherwise) and I learned to haggle ‘Nigerian style’ at the markets. People everywhere shouted, “Oyinbo” (which means white person), so Godswill taught me the proper way to return the greeting: “Omo dudu” (black child) or “Ayo dudu” (black person). It’s basically how people say hello, my pronunciation wasn't the best but I think I got marks for effort!

The first weekend was crazy; I’d only been in the country a few days when Noel and Karen (Irish volunteers) phoned the office to get me to go to Ilesha and meet the other volunteers. So off I went. I met all of the Irish, German, American and Spanish volunteers, heard loads of stories, was told what to expect, all that, which was great. We hiked up a mountain for hours on the promise of a nice swimming spot which ended up being a tiny village at summit and we showered in the Erin-Ijesha waterfall… spectacular! I also had my first trip on an Okada (motorbike taxi) properly dodgy but great craic!!

I returned to Ibadan to finish my orientation and was ‘taken in’ by Noels host family, so I became an Ezmadoo for a few days. Noel showed me how to travel around the city getting taxi’s and buses, which basically involved us getting in and Noel saying ‘right Paul get us to…’ and not saying anything until I figured it out. It worked too! We went to Chiprom, the children’s home he and Eva, a German volunteer, were working at. Crazy doesn’t even begin to describe it. From the minute I walked in about ten little kids surrounded me until it was time to go. After about a week of Lagos, Ibadan and the Ilesha weekend I was finally moving to Osogbo, a small city of about 845,000 people!!, where I would be living and working.

Along the way there was some amazing scenery but we passed an old man begging in the middle of the road with cars and lorries driving around him regardless. It’s not a particularly strange sight over there but I guess it made me think a lot more about the other side of Nigeria.

When I arrived at WADEM, the non-governmental organisation (NGO) I was assigned to, I had a one-to-one meeting with the Programme Director, Mrs. Abokede (who incidentally was my host mother for two weeks as well). She told me that it had been decided that I would research, prepare and write a report on “The Human Rights Issues of People Living with HIV/AIDS” in Osogbo, which would be submitted to the state government and would hopefully get published as well. So nodding my head and with a smile on my face, absolute panic rushing through my veins, I said, ‘Okay that sounds perfect.’

From there I went to the house of my ‘would be’ host mother, (Mrs.) Chief Kolade. Not having met too many chiefs in my time, I was a bit nervous. This wasn’t exactly helped by everyone kneeling or prostrating on the ground when they entered the room. I, on the other hand, walked in and did some weird semi-wave, handshake gesture-type thing and completely embarrassed myself!!! They just laughed it off though, thankfully. I got the feeling I wasn't the first person to make a complete twat of themselves in that situation...

The next day I didn't start work. I was invited to the coronation of a new Yoruba Chief at the palace. It was a big honour. And so I wouldn't feel uncomfortable, I was given traditional Yoruba clothes and hat, it was pretty funny. The ceremony was impressive; there was a huge procession of traditional drum musicians playing, then all the chiefs and the king. Speeches were made in Yoruba, so I didn't really know what was going on… it was impressive though! After the first part of the ceremony Chief Kolade invited me onto the stage to get a better view, then gifts were offered to the king, there was dancing, a gun salute and the prince and princess were officially chiefs. Then onto the party, a cow had been killed for the occasion the day before, there was food, drink, music and yes... dancing. I got up too, not my finest hour! While I was dancing loads of people came over and ‘sprayed’ me, this basically means that they rubbed money on my forehead and then dropped it into my hands. It was to welcome me into the community I think, but you have to see it to believe it.

Work started the next day, with a group prayer, clapping and singing, I was introduced to the team and began my research. I was given articles to read, talked to people and tried to identify the issues that were impacting negatively on the human rights of those living with HIV/AIDS in the region. Everyday I visited clinics, hospitals and the homes of people both infected and affected by HIV/AIDS to distribute questionnaires and conduct interviews.

During the weekend, I stayed in Osogbo to attend one of the monthly support groups. Alot of people didn’t speak English so Mrs. Adeleke, one of the WADEM staff, translated for me. I asked about people’s treatment in their community, family, work and church environment since they discovered their HIV/AIDS status, and people broke down telling us how they were shunned and ostracised. One small boy had become HIV+ as a result of a blood transfusion when he was a baby, and was completely isolated at school by teachers and his classmates, it was really sad. It might sound clichéd but everyone was really positive and optimistic. They talked about the treatments they were receiving and how organisations like WADEM had helped them.

During my time there I also got the chance to help on programmes for OVCs (Orphans and Vulnerable Children), the organisation distributed items from rice and beans to mattresses, school uniforms, pencils and copybooks to children and the families involved on the programme. I worked on an educational needs assessment programme for military wives, which helped establish real vocational opportunities for the women based on their education, skills and interests together with other factors such as regional practicalities.

I made great friends in Nigeria and had a really good experience. It’s a country with a rich culture, full of friendly people. The work made me a lot more aware of important issues, both at home and abroad. Since returning I’ve begun volunteering with an organisation working with HIV/AIDS in Ireland. The experience also showed me the positive impact that organisations such as EIL can have, so I’ve become more involved with EIL as well. I’d recommend it to anyone.

Paul Quinn